Infrared, ultraviolet, and full spectrum: the basics
A plain-language intro to where infrared and ultraviolet sit on the light spectrum, how they differ, and what full spectrum means.
Updated
New to all of this? Here is the short version of what infrared and ultraviolet photography are, and how they relate to ordinary photos.
What is photography?
Photography is a way of capturing images, and these days it is usually done digitally. Most photographs record the world the way our eyes see it, using the band of light we call visible light.
What is infrared (IR) photography?
Infrared photography records light from the infrared band, which sits just past the red end of what our eyes can see. That light is around us all the time. We just cannot see it, but a camera set up for infrared can.
What is ultraviolet (UV) photography?
Ultraviolet photography records light from the ultraviolet band, which sits just past the violet end of visible light. That puts it on the opposite side of the visible range from infrared.
What is the difference between IR and UV?
They sit on opposite sides of the visible band. Infrared has the longer wavelengths, just beyond red, and carries less energy. Ultraviolet has the shorter wavelengths, just beyond violet, and carries more energy. (Ultraviolet is the part of sunlight behind sunburn.)
There is a practical upshot for photographers. Because infrared’s longer wavelengths scatter less in air, infrared tends to cut through haze and hold up over distance. Ultraviolet’s shorter wavelengths scatter and get absorbed more easily, so they do not carry as far through the atmosphere.
What is full spectrum?
Full spectrum means all of it at once: ultraviolet, visible, and infrared. A full-spectrum camera has had the filter that normally blocks UV and IR taken out, so the sensor can record the whole range. From there you choose what to capture by putting a specific filter in front of the lens.
How a camera captures infrared
Every digital sensor can already see infrared. To keep ordinary photos looking right, makers glue a filter called the hot mirror over the sensor that blocks UV and IR. There are two ways past it:
- Screw an IR filter onto the lens. A filter like the Hoya R72 passes infrared and blocks visible light. It is cheap to try, but because the sensor’s hot mirror is still fighting you, exposures run long, so you need a tripod.
- Convert the camera. A service removes the hot mirror and installs an IR or clear filter in its place, giving fast, hand-held shooting on a body dedicated to infrared. See camera conversions.
The infrared look itself, the dark skies and the glowing white foliage (the Wood effect), comes from how strongly plants reflect near-infrared.
What you need to start
- A camera with an IR filter on the lens, or a converted body.
- A filter matched to the look you want. See the filter reference.
- A tripod, essential for lens-filter IR and handy otherwise.
- Software that can set a custom white balance off foliage, the single most important step when editing IR.
Next: pick a look in the filter reference, see which lights work for IR, or read about camera conversions.
Sources & how this was checked
These wavelength boundaries are standard physics. They were cross-checked against NASA's electromagnetic spectrum pages and a general spectrum reference.
- NASA Science, Infrared Waves (infrared sits just beyond red and is longer than visible light)
- NASA Science, Ultraviolet Waves (ultraviolet is shorter than visible light)
- Sun.org, The electromagnetic spectrum (nanometer ranges for UV, visible, and infrared)
Last reviewed June 17, 2026.