Camera conversions: IR and full-spectrum

A stock camera can barely see infrared because of one part inside it. A conversion takes that part out and replaces it, which is what turns an ordinary camera into a dedicated infrared or full-spectrum camera. Here is what that involves, what it costs, what can go wrong, and who does it.

What a conversion actually changes

Every digital sensor can see infrared on its own. Manufacturers glue a filter called the hot mirror over the sensor to block ultraviolet and infrared, so ordinary photos look right. A conversion removes that hot mirror and puts something else in its place. What goes in decides what kind of camera you end up with.

IR camera or full-spectrum camera?

This is the main decision.

• An IR conversion installs an infrared filter (a longpass at a chosen cutoff, such as 720 nm) directly over the sensor. The camera now sees only infrared, all the time. It is simple and gives fast handheld shooting, but you are locked to that one wavelength.
• A full-spectrum conversion installs clear glass instead. The sensor sees ultraviolet, visible, and infrared. On its own that is not an “infrared look,” it is a blank slate. You choose what to capture by putting a filter on the front of the lens, and you can swap filters whenever you like.

Full spectrum is the flexible choice and the one most people pick now. A dedicated IR conversion makes sense if you already know you only ever want one wavelength. We go deeper on how the full-spectrum path works day to day in full spectrum with filters. For the looks each cutoff gives, see the filter reference.

The process, step by step

What a converter does:

1. Open the camera and remove the sensor assembly.
2. Take out the hot mirror filter.
3. Cut and fit a replacement filter (IR longpass or clear glass) to the exact size.
4. Install it over the sensor in clean conditions to avoid trapping dust.
5. Recalibrate autofocus for the infrared focus shift.
6. Reassemble and test.

This is precision work on a delicate, dust-sensitive part, which is why most people pay a specialist rather than risk it.

Focusing and calibration

This is the part that trips people up. Infrared light comes to focus at a slightly different point than visible light, so a camera focused for visible will be a touch off in infrared. Converters correct for it:

• On DSLRs, the phase-detect autofocus is calibrated during the conversion for the chosen filter, so autofocus lands correctly afterward. That calibration is tied to the filter you picked.
• On mirrorless cameras, focus happens on the sensor itself through live view, so it stays accurate without a separate calibration step. That is a real advantage and a big reason mirrorless bodies are popular for conversions.
• Some older lenses have a small red infrared focus mark for manual focus, a holdover from film days.
• Stopping down a little (around f/8 to f/11) adds depth of field that hides small focus errors. Going much smaller invites lens hotspots, so there is a balance. See the lens database for which lenses behave.

What to expect

• Turnaround is usually a couple of weeks, longer around sales.
• Warranty on the work is common, often a year.
• A good conversion comes back clean. A poor one can leave dust on the sensor or, rarely, cause damage, which is the case for using a reputable service.

Cost

Plan on roughly $300 to $600 depending on the camera, the filter, and where you send it, with full-spectrum and premium filters at the higher end. Watch for sales, since some converters discount around Black Friday. Add return shipping, and remember you are dedicating that body to infrared.

Risks and downsides

• It usually voids the manufacturer warranty.
• The body becomes dedicated. A full-spectrum body can still take normal photos with a hot-mirror filter on the lens, but it is fiddly and not as clean as an unconverted camera.
• Any sensor work carries a small risk of dust or damage.
• Resale value drops, since the buyer pool for a converted body is smaller.
• DIY is possible (LifePixel publishes tutorials and sells kits) but you are working on a delicate part, and you still have to handle focus calibration. For most people a professional conversion is the safer money.

Companies that convert cameras

A neutral starting list across the US, UK, and Europe. Experiences vary by camera and over time, so get a current quote and read recent reviews before sending anything. This is not an endorsement.

United States

• Kolari Vision, a wide range of filters and conversions, a lot of educational content and accessories, and now a European arm. Generally seen as a premium service with strong support, at premium prices.
• LifePixel, one of the original converters, known for extensive free tutorials and for selling DIY conversion kits, with a broad filter menu. Runs sales fairly often.
• Spencer’s Camera, a long-running US converter offering IR and full-spectrum work, often mentioned for value.
• MaxMax (LDP LLC), known for scientific, UV, and full-spectrum expertise and popular with researchers. More technical and less consumer-polished.

United Kingdom and Europe

• Advanced Camera Services (ACS), a long-established UK specialist in UV and IR modification, well regarded.
• Protech Photographic, a UK converter with a long track record and a reputation for talking customers through wavelength choice.
• Kolari Vision EU, Kolari now serves Europe directly through an EU operation. (Optik Makario, a long-respected German converter, closed in 2025.)

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Not sure which wavelength to convert to? See the filter reference. New to all this? Start with the basics.