Infrared filter reference

A filter is defined by its cutoff wavelength — the point above which it passes light. Lower numbers let more visible color through; higher numbers push toward black and white. Here's what each does, and how to pick.

Cutoff	Also called	The look	Color	Light loss	Best for
470nm	Hyper color	Visible and IR mixed; near-natural skin tones	Most	≈ +1 stop	Surreal portraits, experimental color
590nm	Super color	Golden-orange foliage, blue skies after white balance	High	≈ +2 stops	Vivid false-color landscapes
665nm	Enhanced color	Strong color with more IR contrast; foliage brightening	Medium	≈ +3 stops	Color IR with more punch
720nm	Standard (Hoya R72)	Glowing white foliage, dark skies; channel-swap ready	Some	≈ +4 stops	First filter; classic IR and false color
850nm	Deep B&W	Essentially monochrome; darkest skies, whitest foliage	None	≈ +5 stops	High-contrast black & white
Clear	Full spectrum	Passes UV + visible + IR; swap external filters to choose	All (filter-dependent)	n/a	Maximum flexibility from one body

How to choose

Want one filter that does most things? Start at 720nm. It's the reference standard, works for both monochrome and channel-swapped false color, and has the most tutorials written for it.
After vivid false color? Go 590nm or 665nm for the golden-foliage, blue-sky look.
Prefer black and white? 850nm gives the cleanest, most dramatic monochrome with the least editing.
Want flexibility? A full-spectrum conversion plus a set of screw-on filters lets you shoot any of these from one body.

A note on cheap filters

Filters sold under the same label can behave very differently. Budget "850nm" filters have been measured passing more like a 720nm, showing uneven density (visible light/dark rings), or costing several extra stops of exposure. When the result matters, test against a known reference like the Hoya R72 before trusting the label.

A brand-by-brand comparison with sample images is planned. For background on the looks above, see Infrared filter wavelengths explained.